Never used PoR but heard that you need to follow the directions. It is also sensitive to sunlight but on a beam the sun does not really shine. I have used the Eastwood Rust Paint and really like it. I used eastwood chassis black as top coat over the rust encapsulator for the suspension as it is resistant to brake fluid whereas the rust paint is not. One thing I did on my rebuild was to use the Rust encapsulator in a spray with the hose attachment and sprayed all the areas that I could not reach with the sandblaster such as the pillars and the roofline where the roof meets the body from the inside ie the gutter. and the rear pillar where it rusts where the factory installed the foam for sound. On the beam I made a small hole in each tower and inserted the spray hose to get to the rust in each shock tower then tack welded the hole shut. The towers usually rust from the inside out.
Careful with the degreaser and the metal prep around the needle bearings as the degreaser will remove all the grease and the metal prep has acid which may etch the bearing surface . Also while rebuilding the beam put new bushings in the beam as this way your torsion arms will have no slop. I reamed each bushing to fit the specific torsion arm to account for the wear . I believe Airkewld (spelling?) has the delrin bushings that hold up well.
Thanks @ghianowbug - good tips!
I was able to work with POR-15 on the weekend, as it finally warmed up enough to use it outside. The minimum application temperature is 10 degrees C so I cheated by 1 degree 🙂
In the kit I purchased, there are three components - degreaser, metal prep, and the "paint". The degreaser should be mixed up to ten parts hot water. It's somewhat caustic as well, so I would recommend rubber gloves for that. I simply wiped down my components with a rag soaked in the solution. Next is the metal prep solution. I just brushed this on. It's a zinc phosphate coating - so lots of ventilation is required. (do this outside!). The next step is the POR-15 itself. I applied it to my front beam, control arms & spindles just with a foam brush. It appears so go on a little thin, almost like a polyurethane wood finish. Wear rubber gloves for this too - as it's pretty durable, even on your skin! Once the POR-15 is applied, it seems to puff up and smooth out. Be careful to not over-apply, as will run and sag. I let it dry overnight. When I went back to have a look the next day, the finish was gorgeous! Smooth, Shiny, and hard as nails. The manufacturer recommends a fine grit sand before applying the next coat over top. I'll do that yet - and then I will do a top-coat in an enamel spray paint, just to keep the appearance, as the appearance will change with UV exposure, but apparently that's only a cosmetic impact.
If I was ever going to do a chassis, rear control arms, or open up some heater channels, this would be the stuff I would use. I can see this stuff lasting for years and preventing any oxidization of metal that is protected by this stuff. For the front beam, hopefully this is my last beam I'll ever need.
Right! "Pics or it didn't happen!" - I know how that goes 😎
I think for a single coat so far, it looks fantastic. Now, if someone could turn off the snow around here today...