- \n
- Oil<\/li>\n
- Sump Gasket kit (including copper washers)<\/li>\n
- Parts cleaner for the sump screen and sump plate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Tools<\/strong><\/p>\n
- \n
- Hammer<\/li>\n
- 1\/4 Drive Ratchet<\/li>\n
- 10 mm socket<\/li>\n
- vice grips (depending on damage done before you got here…)<\/li>\n
- drain pan to collect waste oil for recycle<\/li>\n
- Shop towels \/ paper towels<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Whats a sump screen?\u00a0\u00a0 Don’t fool yourself into believing it’s an oil filter.\u00a0 The mesh screen is about the farthest thing from an oil filter.\u00a0 It would be only appropriate to filter out large debris, but if you had large debris in your engine, yikes!\u00a0 The air-cooled engine does not have a factory installed spin-on oil filter setup either.\u00a0 Remember, the bug was designed in the mid-1930’s and such technology wasn’t widely used yet.\u00a0 It wasn’t until 1946 that the paper pleated oil filter became available.\u00a0 The success of the beetle powerplant showed that it wasn’t really even needed anyway.\u00a0 The sump screen was designed in a way so that the oil pick-up tube would only stick part-way into the sump and the dirty, sometimes containing metal fragments oil, would collect at the very bottom of the engine between sump plate and the screen. Gravity helped out here!<\/p>\n
Other parts you may need, depending on the condition of your sump area:<\/p>\n
- \n
- sump plate<\/li>\n
- new 6mm acorn nuts<\/a> (if required)<\/li>\n
- new original studs 6mmx1.0x23mm (I think the originals were 21mm long, but 23 seem to be commonly available and work just fine.)<\/li>\n
- new step studs 6mmx1.0 to 7mm or 8mm<\/li>\n
- Red “Permanent” thread-lock liquid (i.e. loctite)<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
Why would you need a new sump plate?\u00a0 Most of the time you don’t.\u00a0 The original equipment ones are just fine after a repair.\u00a0 They become dished upwards.\u00a0 This destroys the flat gasket mating surface, causing an oil leak.\u00a0 The repair required is using
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your hammer to “flatten” the holes. Some mullet-head over torqued the poor little 6mm hardware and distorted the sump plate. Don’t expect a new sump plate to be without flaws either.\u00a0 Here is an example from cip1.ca,\u00a0 VWC-113-115-181-A<\/span><\/a>.\u00a0\u00a0 There are no fewer than 8 defects with the part I received.\u00a0\u00a0 Wait, What!?\u00a0 I don’t think I’m being too picky here, but I will give the vendor the benefit of the doubt on one of the defects.<\/p>\nDefects 1 to 6, the condition of the outer ring of holes through the stamping.\u00a0
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/IMG_20180406_2001056-225x300.jpg\")
The die used in manufacturing was so dull, it tore a hole through the plate, rather than cutting.\u00a0 If you don’t believe me, here is a close up.\u00a0 All 6 of the outer holes are like this.\u00a0 The premise of this article was an oil change and preventing leaks.\u00a0 I assure you, this would cause a leak.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/IMG_20180406_2001428-225x300.jpg\")
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Defect 7 is the spot weld on the centre bolt where the washer would rest. Here is a close up of that area (left).\u00a0 There is a burr here that the spot welder left behind. (about 2 o-clock from the big hole) This may not cause a leak, but it’s poor quality.<\/p>\n
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The most laughable defect here is the centre drain plug bolt.\u00a0 To cip1.ca’s credit, they indicated that there was not one included, and I should purchase my own if needed, which I did.\u00a0\u00a0 I selected\u00a0VWC-113-115-193<\/span><\/a>, and it seems great!\u00a0 However, the drain plate did include a drain plug bolt, that has a bit of an issue.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/IMG_20180406_2005506-e1523060882773-300x203.jpg\")
<\/p>\nThe sump screen is supposed to sit flush on a gasket, on the top of the sump plate.\u00a0 There is 3\/8ths of an inch gap here.\u00a0 There is no gasket that will help you here.\u00a0 The other drain plug I ordered seems much more reasonable and allows the sump screen to sit flush on the top of the sump plate.
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/IMG_20180406_2031344-e1523061262875-300x154.jpg\")
<\/p>\nIn order to use my new sump plate, I will need to gently modify it removing the burrs from the stamping, and the spot welded area.\u00a0 Where is my Dremel tool anyway?<\/p>\n
Another thing that I should mention – chrome looks cool, but it leaks if not properly prepared.\u00a0 The gasket surface should be completely clear of chrome. Use some fine grit emery cloth to remove the chrome if you select a chrome sump plate.\u00a0 Be wary of the really cool new aluminum ones as well.\u00a0 They may require replacement of\u00a0 all your sump studs (danger danger – #6 is a bugger), as the aluminum thickness may cause you an issue with gaskets and fastening hardware. Your mileage may vary!<\/p>\n
Gasket sealing compound is not generally required, but in special cases may be.\u00a0 I leave that decision up to you if you have a special need for it.<\/p>\n
Remember the mullet-head I mentioned earlier?\u00a0 He may have damaged the studs that hold the sump plate to the engine.\u00a0 The good news is these can be repaired.\u00a0 There are a couple of techniques based on the damage done.\u00a0\u00a0 If the acorn nuts are just worn out, simply replace them with new acorn nuts.\u00a0\u00a0 You may ask why not use just a standard open face nut?\u00a0 Oil may wick its way down the studs through the threads, and present as an oil drip at the end of the stud.\u00a0 Don’t do it!\u00a0 If it’s just the threads for the acorn nuts on the old studs that are mangled, the old studs can be removed except for one – thats the one that holds the oil pick up tube in place on later model engines.\u00a0 Thats the one at the front of the engine (front is towards the front of the car). Don’t mess with that one if you can avoid it!!\u00a0The engine is a very soft metal (magnesium), which is quite fragile and prone to thread damage in the magnesium.\u00a0 Using the vice grips you can clamp them on the studs and gently unwind them from the engine, being careful to treat the threads in the magnesium crankcase very gently.\u00a0 With the five studs now removed (remember – don’t touch that last one!), you can use some parts cleaner to clean the oil out of threads in the crank case.\u00a0 This is why this job should be done\u00a0 over a week or two span, so the engine completely is void of oil allowing you to clean these threads and prepare them for new studs with permanent liquid thread lock applied.\u00a0 I used the stud for my oil pick up tube as my gauge of how long the studs should protrude out of the engine.\u00a0 Mine measured 11.3mm\u00a0 I encourage you to do your own measurement, perhaps with the sump plate, screen, gaskets,copper washers and acorn nuts you plan to use, and allow for some crush within the gaskets.\u00a0 I’ve decided to go with the Mexican style gasket which is more than 3 times as thick as the EMPI gaskets.\u00a0 I think 11.3mm is about right for me.\u00a0 If the studs protrude too far out of the engine, they will bottom out inside the acorn nuts, and you will not be able to tighten your sump plate correctly, and you will have an oil leak.<\/p>\n
Here are the Mexican gaskets which I got from cip1.ca (VWC-113-198-031-10<\/span>)\u00a0<\/a> versus Brazilian (EMPI) sump kits (which I already had).\u00a0 The Mexican ones are fantastic in my opinion, but may not work well if your studs are very short.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/IMG_20180406_2123475-e1523064961466-300x245.jpg\")
Mexican<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/IMG_20180406_2117412-e1523065093141-300x272.jpg\")
EMPI (Brazilian)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n There is quite a difference in the gasket thickness:<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/IMG_20180406_2116395-225x300.jpg\")
Mexican<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/IMG_20180406_2119251-e1523065024499-300x269.jpg\")
EMPI (Brazilian)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n <\/p>\n
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The hardware is even different:<\/p>\n
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Mexican – includes copper washers – larger shoulder<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n ![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/IMG_20180406_2120008-e1523064996848-268x300.jpg\")
EMPI (Brazilian) includes aluminum washers – kinda skinny<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n <\/p>\n
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Obviously in the package, there are two paper gaskets.\u00a0 Ensure that one of these are on each side of the sump screen.\u00a0 Also make sure there is no “extra” paper gaskets stuck anywhere, like on the bottom of your engine block, or on the sump plate.<\/p>\n
Now, if your mullet-head has really done some damage, and the threads are stripped out of the crank case, don’t loose hope.\u00a0 Step studs to the rescue.<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/StepStud-e1523063188406-213x300.jpg\")
<\/p>\nStep studs allow you to drill and (metric) tap to the next size of threads in the engine, but allow the use of your un-modified sump plate, screen and gaskets.\u00a0 When done right, it’s an invisible repair.\u00a0 Different sizes of step-studs are available, but I would go with 7mm to 6mm step as a first repair, and if those become damaged, you can always as a last resort use 8mm to 6mm step studs.\u00a0 Be forewarned that there is not much material left for strength left in the sump area, so try to use the 7mm’s as a first repair.\u00a0 You can lock (jam) two open face nuts together on your replacement stud.\u00a0 Apply permanent liquid thread lock and wind them into the block, setting at the correct depth.\u00a0 It should take about 24 hours for the thread lock to harden completely.<\/p>\n
When reinstalling the new\/refurbished sump hardware, be sure that you don’t become the mullet-head. Use the 1\/4 drive ratchet only in the palm of your hand as not to apply too much torque.\u00a0<\/em><\/strong> The internet says 5 ft lbs.\u00a0 Thats not much!\u00a0 You can tighten that up with your pinky finger!<\/p>\n
As for oil, I don’t really want to start a holy war.\u00a0 You can pick your oil, and I will pick my oil.\u00a0 I’m using Collector Automobile Motor Oil<\/a> as I think that is pretty cheap insurance to keep my engine together just a bit longer.\u00a0\u00a0 It’s formulated with with ZDDP, which is an anti-wear agent.\u00a0 This is somewhat important to use even on a fully broken-in engine, since we only use them seasonally, offers some residual protection to the lifters and cam-lobes on seasonal startup. Our sponsor Johns Bug Shop<\/a> carries it.<\/p>\n
A complete oil fill for my bug (according to the 1975 owners manual<\/a>) is exactly 2.5 litres.\u00a0\u00a0 For our expected weather for the summer,\u00a0 Volkswagen also recommends a higher viscosity oil than some folks expect.\u00a0 (read: DON’T USE 10W30)\u00a0 Here is the chart for my 1975 engine:<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/oil-viscosity-vs-temp-1975-206x300.jpg\")
Source: Owners Manual: Operation and Maintenance 1975 Models Volkswagen 111, 113 & Convertible Page 52 – (C)1974 Volkswagenwerk Aktiengesellschaft<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n Given the season in southern Ontario, 10W40, 15W40 or 20W50 are probably good selections.<\/p>\n
If you take the appropriate precautions and preparations as discussed above, you can be sure that you will have no oil leaks around your sump.\u00a0 While you are doing your final inspection, and subsequent inspections, keep an eye out for other leaks such as push-rod tubes<\/a>, valve cover gaskets, or from the transmission bell housing (main seal).\u00a0 You will be on your way to preventing those drippy spots on your driveway and in your garage.<\/p>\n
Update: 14 APR 2018<\/p>\n
![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.kwbugclub.org\/armaturenbrett\/wp-content\/uploads\/2018\/04\/oil-viscosity-1960.jpg\")